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5. Basic Medical Care
Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing?
Pet ferrets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering drastically reduces
the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his territory with smelly slime,
and makes him less aggressive (males in season may injure other ferrets, even
females). Spaying saves a female's life, since once she goes into heat she will
need to be bred or she will almost certainly die of anemia. However, the common
practice of performing the surgery at a very early age is thought to be bad for
the ferret, so if you can, wait until the ferret is about six months old. It
should be done before the first
time the ferret would go into heat, but apart from that there's no rush.
Breeding ferrets is difficult, expensive, and time-consuming; if you're serious
about it, talk to a breeder first.
There's some debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or useful.
It's generally thought to be bad for a ferret's health to descent it before 6 or
7 weeks of age. Many people feel that the procedure accomplishes no purpose;
that is, that neutered ferrets who aren't spraying smell the same whether or not
they've been descented. Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if
it's greatly distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent
as effectively as a skunk, it doesn't smell as bad, and it dissipates in just a
few seconds. How often a ferret sprays depends on the individual ferret, and
different people have different tolerances for the scent, so if given the option
you may want to wait and see if you think descenting is necessary.
Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits. Many breeders sell kits
that have been neutered but not descented. Ferrets have nails like dogs, not
retractable claws like cats. Although a small number of people have had their
ferrets declawed, nearly all owners and vets agree that it shouldn't be done.
What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
Canine distemper
Fervac-D canine distemper vaccine at 8 weeks, 12 weeks, and 16 weeks,
then a booster shot annually. Galaxy-D is considered an acceptable second choice
by many vets. If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk that your
ferret won't be protected, or, worse, that he'll become sick from the vaccine.
If you absolutely can't get the ferret-specific vaccine, at least be sure it's a
canine distemper vaccine which is a modified live virus and was not cultured in
ferret tissue. This is a fatal disease in ferrets, and you can bring it in on
your clothes or shoes, so vaccination is crucial.
Rabies
IMRAB-3 rabies vaccine annually, starting at 14-16 weeks, separated
from the distemper vaccine by 2-3 weeks.
Unfortunately, some states and cities don't recognize the rabies vaccination
for ferrets, so if someone reports a bite to the authorities, your ferret might
be confiscated and killed for testing anyway. However, having your ferret
vaccinated will probably keep the person from reporting a nip in the first
place, and it will protect your ferret from rabies should he happen to come into
contact with a rabid animal.
If you don't know whether your ferret has had any vaccinations, give him two
distemper shots (three for a kit under about five months), three weeks apart,
then boosters annually.
Like any other animals, ferrets occasionally have adverse reactions to
vaccinations, typically on the second or third exposure to a particular vaccine.
Reactions are rare, but they can be life-threatening. You may want to stay at
your vet's for an hour or so after a vaccination, just in case. Spacing the
distemper and rabies vaccines a couple of weeks apart may also help reduce the
chances of an adverse reaction.
Do I need to worry about heartworms?
If you live in a heartworm-endemic area (heartworm is transmitted by
mosquitoes, so it's more of a problem where there are lots of them), you should
probably use a heartworm preventative. Just breaking dog tablets isn't good,
because the medication is usually distributed unevenly in the tablet. For more
information about detecting and preventing heartworm disease in ferrets, or how
to prescribe Ivermectin in the ferret, you can have your vet contact:
Dr. Debra Kemmerer at West End Animal Veterinary Hospital, Gainesville, FL at
904-332-4357.
What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?
A strong, healthy ferret who eats well should have a general external
examination and perhaps a fecal check each year when he gets his vaccinations.
Starting at 5 years, an annual CBC (complete blood cell count) and glucose check
is also recommended. A ferret who's always been small or sluggish should begin
getting the annual CBC and glucose test at 2 or 3 years old.
How can I get rid of these fleas?
Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or
their eggs on your shoes or clothing. In general, most products that are safe
for use on kittens are safe for ferrets. Products containing pyrethins are okay,
but don't use anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or petroleum
distillates. Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much
safer. Follow the directions on the bottle carefully. None of the three common
long-term flea treatments - Advantage, Program, and Frontline - have been tested
on ferrets, but many people have
been using them successfully for some time. Ask your vet for advice.
In addition to getting the fleas off your ferret, you'll need to treat your
house. Wash your pets' bedding and vacuum carefully, getting the vacuum bag out
of your house immediately. Then use a flea bomb that contains methoprene, a flea
growth regulator that will prevent the fleas from reaching maturity. You'll need
two applications, one to kill the adults and larvae and a second two weeks later
to get the ones that have hatched since the first spray. Of course, remove
yourself and all your pets from the house while you're bombing.
Do ferrets handle heat well? What about cold?
Ferrets don't tolerate heat well at all. Even temperatures in the
mid-80s (say, above 30 C or so) can cause problems.
The first thing to do, of course, is to prevent heat exposure in the first
place, by providing shade and plenty of cool water, and never leaving a ferret
in a car in the summer. Opening car windows just doesn't help enough. If you
live in a hot climate, your ferret will need special care - a fan, a bottle of
ice wrapped in a towel, maybe air conditioning - in summer.
Ferrets in distress from heat will first pant, then go limp, then lose touch
with their surroundings. The first thing to do is to get the ferret out of the
hot place and start cooling him down slowly. Cool water is best, but not too
cold, since the ferret's body temperature will drop way too far, with him unable
to stop it. Anything you can get him to drink is good, but never force liquids
into an unconscious animal. After these emergency measures, get your pet to the
vet immediately. Even ferrets that seem to have recovered may die due to
the massive shock they've undergone.
On the other hand, ferrets handle cold pretty well. If they have full winter
coats, they'll be perfectly happy living in a chilly room, say 60 F (15 C). They
can easily handle going outdoors in cold weather, and many of them love to play
in the snow. Don't take your ferrets out in really frigid (much below freezing)
or wet weather, and bring them inside if they shiver too much, paw at the door,
or try to climb up into your coat.
What warning signs of disease should I look for?
The following is by no means a comprehensive list of symptoms of
disease in ferrets. However, some of the more common problems are often
accompanied by these symptoms. If you notice one of these, or any other unusual
behavior, see your vet. Ferrets are small. While they generally enjoy good
health, a disease or disorder can be fatal in a surprisingly short time, so if
you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.
lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, etc.; lack
of bowel movement for 24 hours or more; swollen or painful abdomen; change in
"bathroom" habits, signs of discomfort or distress; funny color or
texture in the feces or urine for more than a few days; lumps in or on the body
or feet; difficulty using the hind feet, awkward gait, lack of movement; loose
skin and dull eyes; panting or overheating (ferrets do not tolerate high
temperatures well at all); unexplained hair loss (not just the usual seasonal
shedding); seizures; pawing at the mouth; swollen vulva; neutered males
becoming aggressive, trying to mate, or marking territory; vomiting that is
repetitive or has any signs of blood; diarrhea for more than a day; persistent
hacking or coughing;
sneezing, runny nose, and watery eyes (yes, ferrets can catch some colds and
flus)
How do I contact Dr. Bruce Williams? I hear he'll help with diagnoses
and look at
tissues.
Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, is a ferret expert who works at the Armed
Forces Institute of Pathology. He also operates a pathology lab, AccuPath, on
his own time. He can be contacted by email at <AccuPath@primenet.com>.
Please include your phone number in your email, since complex questions are
often easier to answer by phone. There is no consultation fee, but he says,
"Due to the number of calls that I receive, I must reverse [phone] charges
when contacting ferret owners and their veterinarians."
Tissues of all kinds can be sent to Dr. Williams at AccuPath for low-cost,
expert examination with a short turnaround time. Email <AccuPath@primenet.com>
or call (301) 299-8041 for more information.
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