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3. Ferret Care and Training
What should I feed my ferret?
Most people feed their ferrets high-quality dry cat food, such as Iams,
Science Diet, or ProPlan. It may cost a bit more, but your pet will eat a lot
less and be much healthier. An 8-pound bag of food (usually $10-$15) lasts two
ferrets a couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food
is not very great. The key ingredients are fat and protein, specifically animal
protein, since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from digesting
vegetable proteins well. The food needs to have 30-35% protein and 15-20% fat,
and animal protein should be the first ingredient and at least two or three of
the next few. Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four
years old should get kitten or "growth" foods. Older ferrets can have
kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be switched to the
cat versions. Most ferrets don't like foods with a lot of fish. Soft cat food,
typical grocery-store brands, and dog food don't provide the same nutrients, and
aren't acceptable.
Although ferrets do just fine on cat food, several kinds of food meant
specifically for ferrets also exist. One popular brand is Totally Ferret, which
has received good reviews by a number of owners. If you decide to use a ferret
food, check its label carefully: just because it has a picture of a ferret
on the bag doesn't mean it's really good for ferrets.
Ferrets like to eat in small snacks throughout the day. You can just keep
your ferret's bowl full and let her eat as much as she wants.
In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand,
is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the
brand you've been using changes or is suddenly unavailable, you may run into
problems. To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing them before you run
out of A. Add B a little at a time until they're getting half each, then phase
out A gradually.
Should I give my ferret any supplements?
Ferretone and Linatone (the cat version) are two popular vitamin
supplements, and they're pretty much interchangeable. They are also one of the
most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves them. Like hairball
remedies, too much Ferretone or Linatone can give your ferrets loose stools. No
more than a few drops to one pump a day is recommended, despite what it says on
the label, and it's not necessary to give them any at all.
Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat hairball
remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis. This can help them pass
the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that they somehow find to eat in even the
best-ferretproofed places, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from
grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to think of this as a wonderful treat.
A healthy ferret doesn't need any at all, but a quarter- or half-inch ribbon
every few days as a preventative measure won't hurt. During shedding season,
give him some every day or two, perhaps even more often if he's eaten something
he shouldn't.
What are good treats?
Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables. Small amounts of
these won't hurt, but be sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since
he'll need to eat his regular food to get the required protein and fat. Too much
of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.
Some suggestions: raisins, bits of pear, a mashed slice of banana,
freeze-dried liver (cat treats), peanut butter, green pepper, crackers, melon...
Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. I've heard of
ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries.
Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be allowed to
have much. This is especially true for young kits, since the lactose in cow's
milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily cause them to become dehydrated.
Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins, bananas,
prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it. Also be very careful with
chocolate. Most ferrets like it, but the xanthines found in it are strong
stimulants, and it's not clear whether they might be dangerous to ferrets.
Onions, garlic, and other members of that family also cause problems in dogs and
cats in large doses; nobody knows for sure about ferrets.
How do I train my pet not to nip?
Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A
ferret who has been bred to be a pet and treated well won't be malicious, but
ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know how hard they
can play without hurting you. A playing ferret may put his teeth on your hand,
but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you need to train him not to.
Ferrets aren't mean, they just need to learn what behavior is acceptable.
Positive reinforcement (giving treats) generally works better than
punishment. Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he struggles and nips -
you'll be teaching him that that's the way to get what he wants. Tapping the
ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty common form of discipline,
but it might not be the best. Your ferret might end up associating you with bad
things rather than good ones. Also, it's a very bad idea to use nose-tapping or
other physical discipline on a ferret who has been mistreated or who acts
unusually aggressive or frightened. There are several alternatives, which you
might want to try in combination:
If the ferret is biting too hard in play, try using a signal he already
understands: a high-pitched "Yip!" (or "Hey!" or whatever),
like the noise one kit makes when another is playing too roughly.
Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage and ignoring him for a few minutes
can be very effective, especially if there's another ferret wandering around
conspicuously having fun. Stopping the game by gently pinning the ferret down
until he gets bored can work well, too.
You can put Bitter Apple liquid or paste on your hands so nipping tastes bad.
Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed often hate it. You might also drag
him on the floor while you hiss, which mimics the way mother ferrets reprimand
their kits. Obviously, don't be so rough that you hurt him. You can also cover
his face with your hand, or hold his mouth open by pressing your finger into it
sideways, behind the teeth (being careful not to choke him).
I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do?
Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage, and expand his
space gradually as he becomes better trained.
Keep a little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and
to deter him from digging in it. Don't let it get too dirty, though; some
ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans. Whenever you notice your ferret
backing into a pan, give him a little treat and lots of praise as he comes out.
Even if he didn't actually use it, it'll still reinforce the idea. Most ferrets
won't mess up their beds or food, so put towels or food bowls in all the
non-litter corners until your ferret is used to making the effort to find a pan.
Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up, so make
sure yours uses the pan before you let him out. When he's out running around for
playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every half hour
or so, or whenever you see him start to back into a corner.
Whenever your ferret uses a litterpan, whether you had to carry him to it or
not, give him lots of praise and a little treat right away. Ferrets will do
almost anything for treats, and they're fast learners. Within a few days, your
ferret will probably be faking using the pan, just to get out of the cage or get
a treat. That's okay; at least it reinforces the right idea. Positive
reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than any
punishment, but if you need one, use cage time. Rubbing the ferret's nose in his
mess won't do any good. He can't connect it to it being in the wrong place, and
ferrets sniff their litter pans anyway. As with all training, consistency and
immediacy are very important. Don't bother caging a ferret for a mistake that's
hours old.
If your ferret's favorite corner isn't yours, you have a few choices. You
could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets have short
legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several pans around your home
anyway. Otherwise, try putting a ferrety-smelling towel or a food bowl in the
well-cleaned corner, making it look (and smell) more like a bedroom or a kitchen
than a bathroom. "Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or
another bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it
dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but
also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean
litter pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a deterrent
elsewhere.
Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there is
individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their pans as most
cats, so there will be an occasional accident. Even well-trained ferrets tend to
lose track of their litter pans when they're particularly frightened or excited,
or if they're in a new house or room. In general you can expect at least a 90%
"hit" rate, though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some
do considerably better. At least ferrets are small, so their accidents are
pretty easy to clean up.
Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?
Unless your ferret rolls in something messy or has a bad case of fleas,
you don't need to bathe her very often at all.
It doesn't help the odor; in fact, ferrets smell worse after a bath, as their
skin glands try to replace the natural oils you washed away. To control your
ferret's scent, change her bedding frequently and keep the litter pans clean.
There's nothing wrong with bathing your ferret only once a year; once a month
should be okay, but switch to less often if your ferret gets dry skin. Most
ferrets don't mind baths, and some enjoy them quite a bit.
The first step is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. Put the
ferret on her back on your lap, with her head toward you. Put a few drops of
Ferretone or Petromalt on her tummy and poke her nose at it. She should be so
preoccupied licking it off that she doesn't even notice you trimming her
nails. Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Be careful not to
nick the line or the toe.
Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning more than
once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton swab with
sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or lukewarm water (only if dry skin
is not a problem). Hold the swab along the ferret's head rather than poking it
into the ear. There are also several products made for cleaning cats' ears that
you just squirt in and they shake out; ask your vet about them.
Yellowish or brownish-red ear wax is normal, but if you see any black or
bright red substance your pet probably has ear mites - see your vet. You can't
catch ear mites from your pet, but your cats, dogs, and other ferrets can.
Now fill a tub or kitchen sink part way with water. Ferrets seem to prefer
their baths pretty warm, but of course you don't want to scald your pet. You can
also take her into the shower with you; many ferrets who don't like baths are
happy being held in a shower.
Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby
shampoo works fine too. Some ferrets start to struggle at this point; try
letting yours put her hind legs on the side of the tub while she's being washed.
Rinse her thoroughly in running water.
Drying a wiggly, dripping ferret can be a lot of fun. Some people put a
couple of towels and the ferret together in a cardboard box and let her dry
herself. Others keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and
torso in one hand while gently drying her with the other. Wearing a terry
bathrobe is helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a
towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game and
try to run away. Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a
dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the
job. You can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many
ferrets won't stand for that.
Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing and
bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly
they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement too.
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